Some surprise issues with this new gemstone — David Taylor - Master Jeweller

30th September 2022 - Customer location: Cairns

I just finished this ring for a really lovely couple. Making the ring with them was a pleasure but I did have to give them some bad news about their gem.

When you purchase a gemstone from me I inspect it for flaws and the suitability of the cut for the intended design. This gem purchased elsewhere had issues in both those areas and the customers were not aware of them.

Unknown flaws

Some of the existing chips and surface flaws on this gem.

It is really important that customers are aware of any existing damage to their gem before I start work on it. Not the greatest conversation to have but one that must take place. These customers had no idea of the flaws on this gem, some shown above.

Article: The jeweller swapped my diamond

To put it in perspective, the flaws are all quite small but this is a new gem, most people would expect them not to be there.

Would they have purchased it from the seller if they had known? I doubt it. Would I have sold a gem like this for the design they had in mind? No.

The customers had a specific design in mind. Some gems suit certain types of designs better than others and I take that into account when I source gemstones for customers. The cut of this gem presented issues for the intended design.

What a cut

Off square angles of the emerald cut gem.

The gem had three main cut issues. The first was that the emerald cut was a bit off square. Often symmetrical designs highlight flaws like that in a gem.

Irregular cut of the base of the gemstone.

The second was the cut of the bottom of the gem. The very steep angle on one side made it very difficult to sit it into the under rail. I would have never chose this gem for this design/setting syle.

The third and final issue was once again the steep nature of the sides on the long ends of the gem. Trying to get a gem like this to sit on a rail for claw setting is very difficult. It suits a bezel setting far better.

All good….. but a needed and overdue change coming

The customers love the ring, I worked around all the issues and this couple was so much fun to work with but……

For all the free quotes I do, usually 10 or more a week, it is not viable to spend half an hour or more inspecting the materials thoroughly on top of the time needed to explore design and then calculate the quote. I usually only make a detailed inspection of the customers materials once the quote is approved.

The time taken to discuss and work around issues like those with this ring are a big cost to me. Soon I will be implementing a new system for working on materials sourced elsewhere. More on that soon.

For those that asked for the return of a weekly photo from My World, this is Devil’s Pool in Barron Gorge last weekend. If you climb up that waterfall you can go all the way to Kuranda. Have a great weekend.